Bandhani

In the technique of Bandhani or Bandhavun, as it is traditionally called in its home state of Gujarat, different designs are produced by tying individual parts of the fabric before dyeing.

Women tie up to 700 knots in a cloth in a single day, and what emerges is patterned cloth with extremely fine dots and sophisticated compositions. Historically tracing back to the Harappan civilization, Bandhani is currently practised by the Bandhej community of Gujarat. The dyed fabric is marked after folding the fabric into four, or more layers. Fields are created using a cord dipped in geru. The task of tying the motifs is usually carried out by the womenfolk of the village.

Knots are tied in two ways: one variety requires raising the folds of the fabric with the pointed nails of the fingers to create a little bunch around which thread is tied; the second way requires the use of filler materials, which are filled within the knots. The men are often actively engaged in the dyeing process, which happens in more specialized workshops.