Ari Embroidery

Aari embroidery, practiced in both Gujarat and Kashmir, transforms plain fabric into intricate works of art using a hooked needle to create continuous chain stitches. In Gujarat, especially in Kutch and Ahmedabad, it is known as Mochi embroidery and is closely linked to the Mochi community, who adapted the technique from leatherwork to textiles as early as the 12th century. In Kashmir, the craft is called kashidakari or zalakdozi and is a celebrated tradition believed to have been introduced by Persian Sufi saints, with artisans—often men—mastering the technique across generations.

The process in both regions starts with preparing the fabric, which may be silk, cotton, velvet, satin (Gajji in Gujarat), or wool (commonly in Kashmir). The fabric is stretched tightly over a wooden frame, called a khatli or adda in Gujarat. Designs are first drawn on paper, perforated, and transferred onto the fabric using chalk or powder. The artisan then uses an aari, a small hooked needle, to pull thread from beneath the fabric, forming rapid, uniform chain stitches. In Gujarat, embellishments such as beads, sequins, and metallic threads (zari) are frequently added for richness, while in Kashmir, the embroidery often features woolen threads and covers a larger surface area, creating an embossed effect suitable for upholstery and home décor as well as garments.

Today, aari embroidery remains vibrant in both regions. In Gujarat, artisans work from home or through cooperatives, producing sarees, dupattas, ghagra-cholis, and contemporary fashion. In Kashmir, the craft is seen on shawls, stoles, pherans, jackets, and home furnishings, with crewel embroidery as a notable variant using thicker threads for a raised texture124. Both regions have adapted the craft for modern tastes, blending traditional motifs—such as peacocks and geometric patterns in Gujarat, and floral, paisley, and chinar leaf motifs in Kashmir—with contemporary styles for domestic and global markets.

What distinguishes aari embroidery is its combination of speed, intricacy, and the ability to create both flat and raised textures. The technique allows for detailed, flowing motifs that reflect the natural and cultural heritage of each region. In Kashmir, the use of woolen threads and muted backgrounds highlights the embroidery, while in Gujarat, the addition of metallic threads and embellishments gives a shimmering effect.

Photo Courtesy: Atrangi Studio | KCS Kashmir Emporium